Nail Design Refill – Step by Step instructions

A refill is the filling of synthetic nail coatings or modelled nails which is performed at regular intervals. It provides permanent reinforcement and protection of the natural nail and ensures that the modelled nails don’t lose their stability. Refills take up the largest part of the schedule in the salon. Although it is important to attract new customers and apply new sets of synthetic nails, the established clientele guarantees good sales and should form the major part of the daily business. Exceptions to the rule are salons in resorts and spas or other places with changing clientele. The skill of an experienced professional is demonstrated by a perfect refill. Modelling a new set of nails is often easy compared to elaborate repairs during a refill. Refills show up mistakes in the basic modelling, problems and stress of the natural nails, the way the customer treats her nails as well as readiness to comply with the respective regular refill intervals depending on the condition of the nails. The time for a refill is determined according to the individual nail growth, the condition of the natural nail and potential nail problems. Since nails grow continually and not, as hairs do, intermittently, the refill rhythm can be determined exactly. Here as well it is important to accurately monitor the nail growth, since there may be positive or negative effects (for example: medical therapy, diseases, pregnancy, menopause, etc.) To determine a customised refill schedule make sure to fix the date for the first refill relatively soon after the first modelling. Three weeks is a good assessment value. (In the case of problem nails or nail biters, an individual therapy plan should be developed.)
The application technique: Refill
When the nails grow the entire modelled nail and thus the nail shape moves forward. If you look at the nail from the side, you can see the relocated form line of the nail. The unfavourable static conditions become visible, which will be corrected with a refill.

First apply the usual hygiene measures and remove the remaining polish from the nails.

Step 1 Correct length and shape of the entire nail in the different nail zones and file the nail into shape. Start by TRIMMING the nails, e.g. shorten the nails and file them into shape.

When trimming the nails make sure that the nails have the same length, e.g. match proportionally. Also make sure the nails are shaped identically.

Step 2 The free-edge zone is the nail end which is filed down about 50% thinner during a refill to achieve a level lateral line. Loose material edges or zones should be carefully but completely filed off. Don’t clip off the loose resin parts, but file the complete area homogeneously thinner thus removing the loose parts. Also file off the stress point zone. Bevel the former stress point (apex) towards the free nail edge to enable the modelling of a new static stress point during the refill. Viewed from the front side, the lateral edges become thinner towards the furrow.

Now file the nail bed area so that it gently tapers towards the side walls. Here as well, file off loose material homogeneously tapering towards the natural nail. Please do not clip off the loose material. This increases the danger of damaging the natural nail. Furthermore even more material can lift from the nail. Gently remove the shine from the surface of the natural nail with a fine file (between 180 and 240 grit).

Step 3 We recommend using a modern drill unit to push back the cuticle professionally and to thoroughly remove the excess cuticle. Use a fine stone drill bit or a special diamond bit to remove the excess cuticle and clean the furrow.

Degrease the nail surface with Cleaner (a cleansing fluid) and remove all dust. In this way, the nail is prepared for the refill of the material.

Step 4 Sparingly apply the air-drying bonder Connex Plus onto the natural nail area and let dry for two minutes. The Plus stands for an anti-mycotic addition. It also protects the nails against adverse conditions.

Step 5 Almost all modelled nails are done in a permanent French design. All shades are available today. For a perfect application of the smile line, use the Smile-Line brush. We recommend using FM-Pearl White F. The gel doesn’t run which enables a perfect smile line. After curing you should remove the dispersion film with a dry cotton swab because otherwise the moist, whitish film can mix with the transparent gel during the refill.

Step 6 Now sculpt the nail with a one-component gel and position the stress point (apex) in the optical centre of the nail. The one-component resin, which can also be applied from a tube, makes application easy. Put three differently sized drops of material onto the three modelling zones and spread the material homogeneously.

Step 7 Remove the dispersion film with a cotton swab and file the surface smooth. Usually there is little need for filing since the one-component gels can be applied very evenly. In case of major corrections to the C-curve, we recommend using a more solid one-component material or a 3-component system.

Step 8 Check the shape from different angles before sealing. You should check the shape in case of newly-modelled nails as well as after a refill. The statics of the nail can only be checked from different angles. Turn the nail into different positions.

There are five important angles:1. From the front: you look down the barrel and see the C-curve on the surface, the inner C-curve, the stress point as the highest point, the hairline (the front nail edge, which should be as thin as possible) and the lateral lines which run into the furrow.

2. Downwards: check if the surface is smooth and even.

3. From the back: you see the nail from the customer’s perspective.

4. From each side: check the curved side line (form line), lateral lines and the stress point (apex).

5. Upwards: check the free edge and the evenness of shape and length.

Step 9 If you are satisfied with your work, seal the surface with a sealing polish. If you desire a matt effect use the one-component gel. Then cure the sealing polish and remove the dispersion film.

Step 10 TIP: Oil-finish
For perfect and especially durable bonding of the edges at the hairline, apply an ample amount of Nail Oil from the pipette bottle onto the nail bed and the furrow and polish all edges and the free edge with the oil. The polishing protects the nail edges against moisture and stabilises the connection between the resin and the natural nail in the free edge zone since the nail remains elastic. For treatment at home and the care of her nails, the customer should be shown how to polish the nail edges with the Natural Care system. Regular use of the system significantly reduces the need for repairs in the salon, especially when the customer’s nails tend towards liftings.

The Natural Care System is a polishing and sealing cream for nail surfaces. It contains high quality ingredients like carrot oil, proteins and D-panthenol. It seals the transition zones between the natural nail and the synthetic coating and protects against liftings and nail repairs.

The finished hand with refills.

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